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Sixth VVAW Delegation Visits Vietnam

By John Lindquist

The sixth trip to Vietnam by VVAW was a complete success. We want to thank all those who donated money, rain gear, general support and all around good vibes.

As far as we know, this was the first trip by a national veterans' group to include both veterans and their wives. Besides reflecting the true nature of VVAW, it also shows those in doubt that it is safe to travel in Vietnam. The main political objective of the trip was to push for normalization of relations between our governments. We also wanted to meet veterans and do some touring. We did it all.

The delegation spent two days in a plane or airport, four days in Bangkok, and nine days in Vietnam. The six people who went also drove about 650 miles from Hanoi to Danang. Be sure to ask any of us about our riverboat cruise.

The first two days were spent in Bangkok getting visas, sight-seeing and shopping. No jet lag, we were too excited.

Landing in Hanoi

Wednesday, Dec. 4th Thai Air flew us over Laos and we landed in Hanoi. As we landed, it was easy to see the bomb crates around the airport. Tran Trong Giap met us, guided us through customs and shepherded us into a Toyota van.

Giap, who worked for the Viet-Mi (Vietnam- American Friendship) Society would be our guide and interpreter for our entire time in Vietnam. We would also become much more familiar with the van, and its driver, Tung who tried to keep us out of too much trouble.

While in Hanoi for three days, we had dinner with the Friendship Society; met with the newly formed Veterans Association; visited a factory staffed solely by veterans or their widows and orphans; toured Bach Mai Hospital; visited a craft factory; and did some shopping.

We also ate, and ate, and ate. We drank a bit as well. The food was generally delicious, and the beer was good.

Veterans Association

Meeting with the old officers, who are now the leadership of the Veterans Association, was interesting. One ex-general, Huynh Dac Huong, we began calling "General Dad," because it seemed he was always trying to feed us. Only when we were ready to leave did he tell us that he had served in Laos in '67—'72. He commanded the artillery sieges from the Khe Sanh to Cau Vet, the DMZ!

He was in charge when my bunker was hit! He said, "We knew you were a good mans so we missed." I told him, " You didn't miss. I filled enough sand bags to know that."

We left Hanoi in our trusty Toyota van and drove south for a four day drive (a 12 hour push the first day). We eventually stopped in Danang. On the way we spent nights in hotels in Dong Hoi, Don ha and Hue. The hotels weren't exactly up to international standards, but they did have running water and private bath rooms. That was more than most of the restaurants could boast.

Visit at Dong Ha

We spent some extra time in Dong Ha, which was a sleepy little village with a large Marine base during the war. The whole base has disappeared under the good sized, bustling, new town. The cement landing ramp still exists on the river.

We traveled out the old convoy route west on Hwy. 9, beyond FSB ( Fire Support Base) Vandergrif. There were no signs that the Marines had ever been in the area. The jungle that we fought through 20 years ago is almost all gone. It has almost all been replaced by scrub and pampas grass.

From Dong Ha, we traveled by what was no more than an overgrown canoe to the mouth of the Cau Viet river. This was the base where I had my bunker blown away. I stood...and later pissed on the spot. Again the only sign of Marine presence was the cement landing ramp, as well as a number of Amerasian kids.

We managed to be detained by the army here. It seems it is a military outpost. Word from Dong Ha that we were coming never reached them. The young troops did their job and sent us to their officer. Some fast talking by Giap and a pot of tea, along with cigarettes for the troops, and we were on our way. However, no pictures were allowed.

After lunch with the People's Committee in Dong Ha, we turned south again, into the monsoon rain. Somehow, though we stayed the night in Hue, our permission to visit the Citadel didn't come through. So we had to be satisfied with views from the outside. We left early and med our way through the Hai Van pass ("Pass of the Clouds"), and into Danang.

We ate, of course, did some shopping and met vets (who fought for the South) on the street. We talked to them over beer.

Rather than stay in Danang, we opted to stay on the Beach. We round a new (2 year old) resort between the foot of Marble Mountain and the South China Sea. In fact it occupied the site of 3rd Amtrak Bn, USMC! What a blast from the past. We were able to get wet in the ocean and get some pieces of Marble Mountain to bring home.

After our night on the beach we need to stop at the police station before leaving Danang. Seems the Peoples Committee somewhere up the line had sent word that we had been detained, and then skipped. Again Giap's fast talking kept us moving.

As we were waiting at the Danang airport for our flight to Ho Chi Minh City, we were interviewed by Swedish TV. Then we boarded a Russian made plane with bald tires that was configured for Vietnamese.

We made it safely into Saigon (as everyone who lives there still calls it) for our last two days. It was hotter, and much more active than the rest of the country. We met with the local chapter of the Veterans Association; visited Tu Du obstetric and pediatric hospital, which is internationally known for its work on Agent Orange poisoning; and toured the Cu Chi tunnels. It is truly amazing to see how people will strive for independence.

"Capitalist Venture"

We concluded the trip by breaking the US government's embargo on foreign investment. Instead of tipping our guide Giap, which he insisted many times was not done, we invested in him.. A contract was drawn up and signed by each of us. You might say our joint venture was financed by a bond. It was an exercise in capitalism at it's finest.

The trip home seemed much longer than the trip over, and the recuperation time was long. But we are here and functioning again.