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From Saigon to Soweto: Vietnam Vet Visits South Africa

By Greg Payton

Greg Payton
NY/NJ VVAW

The U.S. foreign policy which proclaims its interest in human rights and freedom whenever convenient around the world is the same policy supporting Apartheid in South Africa. The "strategic interests" of the U.S. are placed in front of human interests. Apartheid is tolerated and justified while the black majority in South Africa suffers. U.S. foreign policy in Vietnam was a racist policy and so is its policy toward South Africa, Central and South America and the Middle East.

As a veteran of the Vietnam war I was able to identify with the personal conflicts that come with resisting and serving in an unjust war. In 1987, I'd participated in a national tour of South African draft resisters that was sponsored by the War Resisters League (WRL) and featured members of the End Conscription Campaign which is now banned in South Africa. The ECC and VVAW had a lot in common. Through my involvement in VVAW and WRL I was asked by the Conscientious Objectors Support Group (COSG) to become the U.S. participant of an international delegation of anti-war activists to focus on the war in South Africa and the conscientious objection to that war by while South Africans.

After meeting with the WRL, the American Committee on Africa and the African National Congress, and talking with my family and friends, I decided to make the tour. Going to the Motherland has been a fantasy since childhood, but to go to South Africa, the country referred to by a friend as "the place where they eat niggers," caused anxiety and many sleepless nights.

I landed at Jan Smuts Airport, Johannesburg South Africa on April 28, 1989 with guarded feelings, not knowing what to expect. I was met by members of the COSG and taken into Johannesburg proper. My first reaction was to the intra-structure: this was a large industrial modern city. Apartheid is very subtle and may go unnoticed to a tourist in Johannesburg. It was not confrontational like the "Jim Crow" laws in recent U.S. history. The damage has been done and although 28 million blacks are the majority, 5 million whites rule.

My first three days in South Africa were spent being briefed about the tour and meeting the other delegates: Pieter van Reenan, from the Netherlands, a member of the Dutch Conscientious Objector Union; and Howard Clark of Great Britain who works with War Resister's International. We were to tour every major city speaking at public meetings and every prominent white university in the country. We would also go to many townships to meet grassroots leaders as well as a few prisons to meet jailed objectors. The more I learned about the tour the more excited and afraid I became. But many of my fears diminished when I came in contact with Laurie Nathan, a South African War Resister I had met during his U.S. tour in 1987. Laurie is now involved with the struggle for Namibian independence.

The tour took me to Capetown, Durbin, Pietermaritzburg, Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown. I spoke at the University of Capetown, Witswatermand U., the U. of Natal, Rhodes U., and Stellenbosh U. I visited Alexandria Township, Soweto, K.T.C., Chesterville and Crossroads, and Umiazie Townships. Before the tour these were just names of vaguely familiar places, but after seeing and interacting with the people, South Africa is now a reality in my mind and heart.

On May 1st, we attended the Congress of South African Trade union rally at Witswatersrand University. This rally was impressive, very energetic and fiery. That afternoon we received word that David Webster, a law professor and progressive white activist had been assassinated. You could tell form the reactions of the people in the progressive movement that he was someone special. That night an impromptu memorial service was held for David Webster at Witswatersrand U. which was attended by more than 600 people. It was one of the most moving tributes I have ever attended; person after person spoke about Mr. Webster's commitment to the movement and implored the audience not to let his spirit die. I was touched by this non-racial demonstration as he was eulogized by both black and white leaders.

The tour was launched with a press conference attended by Beyers Naude and Judy Bester, the mother of Charles Bester who is serving a sex-year jail sentence because of his conscientious objection to the war.

In Capetown, I met Iwan Toms, a young white South African doctor (out on bail after serving 9 months of an 18-month sentence for refusing to attend CAMPS—training after active duty in the South African Defense Force) who reinforced the commitment of white progressives who are working towards change in South Africa along non-racial lines. Dr. Toms headed the S.A.C.L.A. Clinic at Crossroads Township, the only doctor for some 50,000 black South Africans.

While in Capetown, I addressed a drug rehabilitation center, the Capetown Drug Counseling Centre, where I met Pieter Steinegger, a counselor doing alterative service (six years!). Speaking at a town meeting in Capetown was special to me, not only because Farid Esack (a Muslim Iman, an outspoken opponent of Apartheid) spoke, but because I was confronted by a South African defense Force vet who was suffering from post-traumatic stress disorder and was drug addicted, and I was able to refer him to the Drug Rehab where I had spoken.

In Durbin, we stayed with Patty and David Geeodts. Patty is a very energetic older white South African woman who has been involved with the anti-apartheid movement for years. She was one of the primary organizers of the Black Sash, a white progressive women's organization. Pieter van Reenan and I spoke at St. Josephs, a Catholic High School and met with Archie Bumedu, one of the leaders of the United Democratic Front. We also met with Sandile Thusi, a student organizer, one of the 39 hunger strikers while in detention, who is now under restriction and house arrest. Such courage was not uncommon among young South Africans.

I must say that speaking at Stellenbosch, an Afrikaans University that is the alma matter of P.W. Botha, was unnerving. Everywhere I spoke people related to my experiences as a Vietnam veteran and the effect war has on those who participate in it. There was almost always a conscientious objector sharing the platform with me.

Living in white South Africa was an unusual experience. It was very quiet. I never saw children playing in the street and most homes were hidden by high walls with barbed wire on top and alarm system signs displayed on the front gates. There was a constant tension in the air. In contrast, the children in the townships played and people laughed in spite of their problems.

One of the highlights of the trip was meeting Charles Bester, the 18-year-old conscientious objector who is serving 6 years for his convictions. South Africa has the harshest laws in the world as they relate to conscientious objection, and the international community intends to focus on South Africa in 1989. After driving for 3 hours to get to Kroonstadt Prison, we met with Charlie, as his parents call him, for 1/2 an hour. It was emotional to see such a young person imprisoned when all he needed to do was to compromise his values to be set free.

I also traveled to Pretoria Central Prison to visit Dave Bruce but his visitors were limited.

At a prayer service in Soweto's Orland West section, I was overcome by the magnitude of my trip and the importance of black Americans and all Americans working for the change of a system that is not just strangling South Africa but ruining the planet.

It is my belief that Apartheid cannot stand much longer. When I spoke at public meetings I also listened. I heard mothers, fathers, sisters and brothers, often speaking out for the first time, stating that they had never realized the effect that war has on everyone.

Apartheid Has Oppressed the Oppressor

One Sunday morning, it was raining cats and dogs! I went into Alexandria Township to attend church service. After service I was invited to breakfast by a young black South African woman, Bapsj Masite. We had returned to church to hear the young people play the marimbas. As we left that program, the Casspirs (Army personnel carriers) arrived. My heart jumped into my mouth, I clutched my passport; the fear was intense. For a brief moment, I felt what living in black South Africa is all about.